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Craft

Why We Make Only Extrait

What concentration changes on the skin, and why we chose to work at a single strength.

4 min read

How perfume is usually sold

Many fragrances come in several versions: eau de cologne, eau de toilette, eau de parfum. Each is a little stronger and a little more expensive, the same composition at a different dilution.

Ember Sky makes one concentration, extrait de parfum, and nothing lighter.

What concentration actually does

Extrait de parfum carries 15 to 22 percent fragrant oil, against the 8 to 12 of an eau de parfum. More oil means less alcohol, which means less of the sharp, evaporating top and more of the warm, resinous heart that lingers.

The first spray is softer, and the fragrance is far more present an hour later. Less of the experience happens in the opening and more of it in the base, where most of the composition lives.

Why we chose it

Extrait is harder to make. It costs more to fill, takes longer to mature, and is difficult to sample cheaply. We work this way because it suits our materials best.

Notes like driftwood, orris and smoked rose need time and concentration to unfold. Extrait gives them both.

How to wear it

Use less than you might expect. Two points are enough, where the skin is warm: the wrist and the throat. Extrait sits close and opens slowly, so leave it to develop.

Reapply only once you've stopped noticing it, which with extrait takes some time. By evening it will have settled into your skin.